我们在攀爬时都会充满力量，但常常会浪费了它，这是由于不当的行为引起的。通过了解我们是如何浪费体力的，可以减少浪费，更好地专注于眼前的目标。
你在上一个保护点上方七英尺处，离下一个保护点还有三英尺。你感到是有力量的，但是当你在保护点上方攀爬，并已经到极限时，你会觉得力量正在流失，你的手臂发胀而感到挫折。所有的忧虑和疑惑一起涌来。怎么回事？为什么会在先锋极限时感到无力？
你的力量是有限的。你对待它的方式将决定你的攀爬表现。是使用还是流失？将你的注意力集中在当前的处境，可以完全地使用你的力量，从而提高攀爬的水准。而浪费力量的行为就称为力量的流失。
以下是几种常见的力量流失：
1. 反应。你的力量是用在做出反应吗？“我已经手臂发胀，在保护点上方——我需要下降。”或者，你的力量用在考虑要继续攀爬需要做什么。“等一下，不要做出反应。我真的需要下降吗？我的手臂真的发胀以致无法再爬三英尺了吗？冲坠危险吗？”要避免力量流失，观察你的反应，并停止这种反应。然后重新关注继续攀爬所需要做的。
2. 消极的自我对话。你的力量是用在自我批评了吗？“手臂又发胀了，你根本爬不了，你这个没用的家伙——总是一害怕就下降。”或者，你的力量用在考虑要继续攀爬需要做什么。“等一下，停。这对我的攀爬毫无帮助。”要避免力量流失，要小心这种消极的自我对话，制止它。然后重新关注继续攀爬所需要做的。
3. 希望。你是不是因为希望攀爬有所不同，或者希望它成为你想要的样子而浪费了力量？“我希望这个手点更大些。我希望可以红掉。”或者，你是不是可以接受它原来的样子。“我不会希望这个手点更大些——相反，怎样才是抓住这个小点最好的方法？我不会希望红掉这条路线——相反，要完成这条路线需要做什么？如果我把注意力放在如何攀爬，就会增加红掉的几率。”要避免力量流失，接受这条路线，把注意力集中在攀爬所需要做的。
你的力量是有限的。所以，将你的注意力集中在当前的处境，也就是攀爬需要做什么，从而完全地使用你的力量。如果沉溺于以上这种自我限制的行为，只会徒然流失力量。力量流失的时候，你的手臂会发胀，无法尽全力。停止反应、自我批评和希望的行为。这样就可储存力量，用于所需之时。
Liufeng51的几点经验补充：
1）以过程为导向，减少压力﹔享受攀爬过程，而不必在乎结果。在绝壁上表现好的“岩舞者”往往是以过程导为向，而不以结果为导向。以过程为导向的“岩舞者”不会觉得攀爬有什么压力，没有压力的攀爬自然会节省很多力气，且勇于尝试冒险并突破困难线路，甚至于经常在远距离点时敢于做Dyno。
2）把冲坠当作免费的嘉年华。如果冲坠是安全的，那就勇于向上吧，有什么好惧怕的呢？！长距离的冲坠，那是免费的嘉年华啊！好好地享受那一刻吧。减少冲坠的恐惧，你会发现每一步的攀爬都显得那么自信而有力量。
3）建立信心，以积极的心态攀登，正面的情绪往往激发强大的力量。难点前专注于过去成功而真实的体验，我行！我可以！对自己笑一笑，正面的激励将使神经系统迅速反应，减少负面压力，获得更大的力量。消极的心态将产生负面影响，如果你有坠落的想法，那么，你将迅速力竭，八成要坠落。
4）控制你的呼吸。好而有效的呼吸方法将使身体获得更充足的供氧，配合血液流通快速地带走累积的乳酸，从而缓解力竭的表现﹔糟糕的呼吸将使肌肉迅速疲劳甚至僵硬，以致无法抓住岩点而坠落。线路的不同阶段需要调整不同的呼吸方式。比如难点前的深呼吸缓解压力积聚力量，难点处的大吼呼出一口气增加力量，容易路段平稳而有规律的呼吸控制攀爬节奏等等，需要用心体会。
5）想象演练，以最快的速度流畅地攀登，减少力量的浪费。开始攀爬前试着想象攀爬过程中的每一个细节，尤其是难点处。想象你的身体正在岩壁上攀爬，你看到了什么，抓握到了什么，如何扣快挂，想象你的手指稳稳地抠住了那个二指洞，二头肌开始迅速收缩，上异侧高脚，然后锁定拉起身体，顶膝盖扭腰送胯压重心，你的呼吸在难点处变得越来越急促，甚至已经感觉到手心冒汗，在一声大喊中你果断出手去够远处的小突起……把这些影像刻进脑海，细节越丰富效果越好。当真正攀爬时，你会发现居然爬得那样流畅，一气呵成便完成了，甚至于没有感觉到难点不知不觉间已经被突破。
附原文：
Help! My Power is Leaking!
We all have ample amounts of power to climb, but we tend to waste it. Our power leaks away due to disempowering behaviors. By understanding ways we waste power we reduce those leaks and are better able to focus on the task at hand.
You are seven feet above your last pro with three more feet to go before you can get more. You feel strong, but when you are climbing above pro and at your limit you feel like your power is leaking away, leaving you pumped and frustrated. All sorts of worries and doubts RUSH IN. What’s going on? Why do you feel powerless when you are leading at your limit?
You have a certain quantifiable amount of power. What you choose to do with it will determine your performance. Are you going to use it or lose it? Choosing to keep your focus on the situation will allow you to utilize your available power impeccably and will result in an improved effort. I call behaviors that waste power power leaks.
Here are some common power leaks:
1. Reacting. Does your available power go into reacting? “I’m pumped and above my pro—I need to go down.” Or, does your available power go into figuring out what is needed to continue climbing? “Wait Arno, don’t react. Do I really need to go down? Am I too pumped to climb three more feet? Is the fall dangerous?” To keep your power from leaking, observe when you react and then stop the reaction. Then refocus on what you need to do to climb.
2. Negative inner dialogue. Does your available power go into self-critical inner dialogue? “You really **** man. Pumped again. You just can’t climb. You wimp—always going down when you get scared.” Or, does your available power go into figuring out what is needed to climb. “Wait, stop this talk. It isn’t helping me climb.” To keep your power from leaking, become aware of the negative inner dialogue and stop it. Then refocus on what you need to do to climb.
3. Hoping/Wishing. Do you waste power by wishing the climb was different than it is or hoping it turns out as you want it to? “I wish this hold was bigger. I hope I redpoint this climb.” Or, do you accept the climb as it is. “I’m not going to wish the hold was bigger—rather, what’s the best way to grab this small hold? I’m not going to hope I redpoint—rather, what do I need to do to climb this route? If I focus on what I need to do to climb I’ll increase my chances of redpointing.” To keep your power from leaking, accept the climb as it is and focus on what you need to do to climb it.
You only have so much power. So, utilize it impeccably by focusing it on the situation—what you need to do to climb. If you indulge in self-limiting behaviors as I’ve described above then your power will leak away unproductively. When power leaks, you get pumped and you won’t have a solid effort. Plug those leaks by stopping reactions, stopping self-critical dialogue, and stopping wishful/hopeful behavior. Plugging those leaks conserves your power so you can use it when you need it.
| 联系我们 | 市场合作 | 友情链接 | 站点地图 | | |
| Copyright © 2006 - 2007 FARERDAK Inc. All Rights Reserved |  |
